Presser foot for sewing machines



Feb. 15, 1944. E. J. BILLINGTON PRESSER FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES FiledJuly 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 9 mm a. J a M ATTOR EY Feb. 15, 1944.

E. J. B ILLINGTON PRESSER FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Jtily 19, 19413 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR 5W4 J. flay/V670 ATTORN Y' Feb. 15, 1944. E..1. BILLINGTON PRESSER FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed July 19, 1941 3Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR I 1514/4 dffl/u/n/era/v A TTORN Y Patented Feb.15, 1944 PRESSER FOOT FOR SEWING MACHINES Emil J. Billington, Chicago,111., assignor to Union Special Machine Company, 'Chicago,.Ill., acorporation of Illinois Application July 19, 1941, Serial No. 403,111 12Claims. (cl. 112- 151 This invention relates to a presser foot having anattachment or portion which may be readily shifted into operative orinoperative position as the sewing of a seam proceeds and which, when inoperative position, serves to assist in turning under or infolding theedge of one of thematerials being'united and in presenting the samecorrectly to the stitch forming means. The invention also includes theimproved construction and arrangement of the parts of a multi-sectionedpresser foot.

A device constructed in accordance with this invention is especiallysuited for use in the attachment of collars and cufis to shirts. In thenormal operation of attaching a collar, for example, the inner ply ofthe band of the collar which is to be attached to the shirt is firstlaid back to back against the inner side or inner ply of the shirt. Theouter ply of the band is turned back while the inner ply and stiffenerare then secured to the top of the shirt by a line ofthrough-and-through stitching. Upon completion of this operation, theshirt is turned over and the collar is unfolded in preparation for thestitching of the outer ply of the collar band. It is in connection withthis operation that the attachment forming part of the present inventioncomes into play to assist in infolding the outer ply of the collar justin advance of the point at which it is stitched down. Provision is madefor readily swinging the attachment into either operative or inoperativeposition. As the line of stitching swings sharply around the ends of thecollar, the attachment is normally disabled.

The improved presser foot is formed in, two sections, which are bothtiltable, independently, on the supporting shank and one of which ismovable bodily on the shank. This enables the presser foot toaccommodate itself readily "to variations in the thickness of the workat different points, including variations as between the two sides ofthe presser foot. Such adjustability of the presser foot sections is ofparticular importance in conjunction with the attachment.

Other features and advantages of the invention will appear from adetailed description of an i1- lustrative form of the same which wil1now be given in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure I is a plan view of the improved presser foot and attachment,showing a presser bar in section and showing a portion of the work onwhich the device is operating, the attachment being in inoperativeposition;

Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure I but showin op erative position;

ing the presser foot in a different" position in relationto the work andshowing the attachment Figure III is an enlarged front elevation of thepresser foot, the attachment being shown in section along the line 3-3of FigureII and being shown in dotted lines in its inoperative position;Figure IV is an exploded perspective view of all of the various elementsembodied in the presser foot and attachment; I

Figure V is a bottom view of the device; Figure VI 'is a rear elevationof the device; Figure VII is a cross section through one of the membersof the presser foot, taken along the line 1-! of Figure IV, and

Figure VIII is a plan view of a collar and shirt assembly at one stagein their attachment.

Turning now to the drawings, the improved presser foot comprises a shank6 adapted to be secured in any convenient way to a presser bar 1, which,as indicated in Figures I and II, may suitably be hexagonal in crosssection at its lower end. This presser bar, it will be understood, maybe mounted in any convenient manner in the needle head of the sewingmachine and will be urged downwardly toward th 'work support by anappropriate spring. The shank of the presser foot may be provided at oneside with a suitable channel 8 conforming with the shape of the adjacentportion of the presser bar. 'A slot 9 communicating with the channel isadapted to receive the body of a screw I0 having threaded engagementwith the presser bar for clamping the shank thereto.

The lower end of the presser foot shank is bifurcated to provide spaceddownward extensions II and 12, each having a. hole 13 adapted to receivea pin l4 which may be retained in place'by friction or by peening over.its ends, after the assembly of the various parts. The presser foot maybe suitably formed in two sections l5 and i6. Section or member I5 hasintegrally formed therewith an upwardly extending block or projection llhaving an aperture l8 whichreceives the pin l4 and thus permitstiltingor pivotal movement of the section IS in relation to'the shank. Sectionor member I6 of the presser foot is preferably provided with a slottedupward extension forming a pair of spaced, integral blocks I9 and 2i).Each block has a laterally extending I portion 2| adapted to overlie theadjacent edge curved upwardly to a slight extent. Due to the;

cooperation Of the overhanging portions 2| with the top of the section15, the latter also tends to:

follow the movements of section It. The tilting of the two sectionsunder influence of the spring 24 is limited by engagement of the section[5 with the forward corner I la of the shank. However, the two sectionsof the presser foot in passing over the work are capable of independentrocking movement and the section It; is also capable :of bodily, .upwardmovement relative Zto the pini Hand hence relativeto. the section;l5.This enables the presser foot to accommodate itself -ireadily to varyingthicknesses of material as seams andthe like are brought beneatheitheror-bothzof the sections. The forward end or toe -..2E.of the .sectionl51is preferably curved upwardlyto a slight extent and the side of.this:section, adjacent thesection I6, is no-tched,.as.indicated at 21,to permit the passage'oftheneedle. The side of'..section:lBtoward thesection IBispreferably curved away .from the latter slightly, as

. :indicatedat-28in Figure V, and this SldeilS pref- 1erably..-a1soprovided with a concave depression 29, as shown in Figures :V and VII,which grad- .ually .becomes shallower and then disappears somedistancein from the end. In .line. with theslot 22, betweenthe blocks l9Q and. 20, or. slightly .in advance thereof, :.and at the oppositesideof thesection I6, there.'is pro- .ivided a downwardly and .inwardlysloping sur- .face ..This is -adapted toflreceive the -under surface ofa correspondingly inclinedextension .3! .of .a'fabric guideattachment32. The latter is .esecuredto the section it by meansbf :ascrew .33whiclrpasses through-an...aperture.34 in the :extension 3| andis received by-a threadedopen- .ings351 perpendicular to. the surface30. The screw 3 3 preferably has. a smooth annular. shoulde 'cpor- .tiondirectly beneath the-.head, about whichrthe attachment?! is adaptedtoswingfreely even 7 when the screw is tightened in: place. .Extension 73| has its inner end .36 roundedand thesurface 31 on the member IS, withwhich--this. rounded end .cooperates, is similarly curved to permit theattachmentto be swun freely 'fromthe fullline position .of Figure III.to .the .broken-line .position in said figure. For this .same :purposethe corner 30a of the. surface 30. is beveledand.

. rounded slightly. to avoidinterference with the shoulder 3la.ontheattachment.

To enable the attachment to be swung readily from one position to.an0ther,.it. is.preferably .provided with a small handle or knob 38which may be. engaged readily by the finger orzthumb of the operator.When the attachmentisswurie .to its. inoperativeposition, indicatedinbroken linesin Figure III, itis preferably retained sucheposition simplyby friction. Whenishifted into-.operative.position, it will be retainednot only by friction but also by gravity,.acting-as a result of theinclination of thesurface 30, and also by the frictional drag of thematerial which passes over and under a. portion ofthe'attachment, in themanner. to be later explained. However, if desired, any suitable detentmay be employed for retaining the fabric guide in either operative orinoperative position.

Extending laterally from the attachment 32, adjacent its free end, is a,wing portion 39 having an edge 40 extending across the ends of thesections 15 and 16 when the attachment is in operative position. A notch4| in the edge 40 is in line with a small space 4 la provided betweenthe forward ends of the two sections of the Presser .foot, by thecutting away of a portion of the toe 26 of section [5. On its undersurface the wing portion 39 is preferably provided with a rib or ridge42 at one side of the notch 4|, this rib 'havingone edge formed as anextension of the inner'side of the section IS. The rib I4 preferablypresents a square shoulder at this edge from which the outer end of thewing extends as a blade 39a. However, on the opposite side of the ribthere may be provided a smoothly curved fillet 43. Rib 42 and-fillet 43may be formed-as an integral part of the attachment. or, .as indicatedin Figure III,these maybe welded orotherwise secured to theunder'surface of the wing. The under surface of the rib is in thehplaneof the bottom of section l6 when the guide is in operative position. Atits forward end the rib is rounded or curved slightlyupwardlyto-facilitate its passage over seams and-the like. Themainportion of the guide 32 is relieved slightly on-its under surface sothat actualcontact .with the work is made only-by the-rib and-bladeportions ofthismember.

We shall now 'describein.v greater detaila-typical operation inconnection withwhich the. invention may appropriately be. used, .i. e.,theattachment ofcollars .to shirts. JReferring'jto .Fig-

vnure VIII, there .isindicatedlthe first step in this operation. 'Theinner pliesof a shirt-45 and a collar 46. are first placed back to backwith their free-edges '4'! juxtaposed. The various pliesol the shirt andcollarare best indicated .iniFigure III,-in which viewfhowevenf'theyare. ready 'for the second operation. 'Thus, theshirt may compriseaninnerply -4'8 and across the shoulders an outer ply 49, the inner plybeing backed against the inner ply ofltheband of a collar. A.stiffener"5l is providedbetween the inner ply illand'the outer ply 52 ofthecollar. While the collar and shirtuare placed back'to back, inthemanner explainedjthe. inner plyand stiffener of the collar are.securedtol'theplies of the shirt by athrough-an'd-through line of. stitching53. At this time'the outerply'52 ofJthe collar is' turned back, asbestshown in'Figure VIII. If this operation is performed on.themahineembodying the improved construction,. the.. attachment 32 willbe swung outwardly to 'its'inoperativeposition.

Next, the shirt willIbe-turned over andthe collar folded out intothe.positionindicated'inJFigures LlIand III. A lineof stitching. willthen be formed aroundthe endoflthe collar, commencing approximatelyat.the ..-point 54a. As the stitching is formed v.aroundthe .pointed .end55 of the collarb-and, and. thepresser foot isclose .to the button .56,the attachment is left in inoperative position, as shown in Figure l.The inturning of the outer ply is performedby hand at this time.However, when the stitching reaches the point shownin Figure II theattachmentis swung into place by a flip of-the' fingeragainst theknob38rso that the end of the blade 39a-passes between the outer ply 52 ofthe=cdllarand the outer-ply 49 of. the shirt. With :butslightassistancefrom correctly to the needle operating through theopening 21. At the same time the square shoul- "der presented by the rib42 and also the inner side of the section is, ridingagainst' the slightshoulder on the work formed bythe stitching 53,

will assist further in presenting the work correctly to the needle. Amore uniform product is thus formed. Moreover, variations in thethickness of the work at one or both sides of the line of stitching, dueto seams and gathers in the yoke of the shirt, will be readily takencare of by the construction and arrangement of the various parts. Whenthe opposite side of the shirt is reached, and the stitching is to becarried around the point and the buttonhole at this end, the attachmentis again swung outwardly into inoperative position until the operationis completed.

The invention may also be used to'advantage in the attachment of cuffsto shirts and in a number of other operations of related character.

While an illustrative form of the invention has been described inconsiderable detail, it will be understood that numerous changes may bemade in the specific construction and operation of the device withoutdeparting from the principles and scope of the invention as defined bythe appended claims.

What I claim is:

1. In a device of the class described a presser foot shank, a presserfoot member rockably mounted on said shank, said member having ashoulder adapted to assist in infolding the edge of a section of fabricand to maintain said edge at a uniform distance from the line ofstitching, and an attachment pivotally carried by said member, saidattachment having a portion adapted to be passed between plies of thework being stitched to facilitate the infolding operation or to befreely swung outwardly laterally of the line of stitching and upwardlyinto inoperative position at will during the formation of a single seam.

2. In a device of the class described a presser foot shank, a presserfoot member mounted for free rocking movement on said shank, and anattachment carried by said member on a pivot inclined at an acute angleto the axis of said shank, said attachment having a portion adapted tobe passed between plies of the work being stitched and to extend acrossthe line of stitching or to be swung outwardly and upwardly about saidpivot into inoperative position at will. 3. In a device of the classdescribed a presesr foot shank, a presser foot member mounted for freerocking movement on said shank, and an attachment carried by said memberon a pivot inclined at an acute angle to the plane of the work engagingsurface of said member, said attachment having a portion adapted to be.passed between plies of the work being stitched and to extend across theline of stitching or to be swung outwardly and upwardly about said pivotinto inoperative position at will.

4. In a device of the class described a presser bar, a presser footshank secured to said bar, a foot member mounted for free rocking andbodily movement on said shank, and an attachment carried by said memberand movable in a plane at an acute angle to the axis of said presserbar, said attachment having a portion normally extending betweensuperposed plies of the workbeing stitched and across the line ofstitching and adapted upon movement in-said plane to hes-mm ed outwardlyand upwardly into inoperative' position at will. Y

' 5. In a device -'of the class described a presser bar,- a shanksecured to said bar, a foot member carried by said shank, said memberhaving a shoulder adapted to assist in infolding the edge of a sectionof fabric and to maintain said edge at a uniform distance from the lineof stitching, and an attachment mounted on said member for movementfreelyjinto either operative or inoperative position at will during theformation of a single seam, said attachment having a portion arrangedwhen in operative position to pass between plies of the work in advanceof said member and to extend across the line of stitching-to facilitatethe infolding operation, said portion being above the work and spacedlaterally outwardly at one side of said member whenin ino'perativeposition. v I

6. In a device of the class described a presser bar, a shank secured tosaid bar, a foot member carried by said shank, and an attachment mountedon said member for movement freely in; a continuous sweep into eitheroperative or inoperative position at will during the formation'of asingle seam, said attachment having a portion arranged when in operativeposition to pass between plies of the work in advance of said member andto extend across the line of stitching, said portion cooperating withthe member to infold the edge of the upper ply,said portion being abovethe work and spaced laterally outwardly at one side of said member whenin inoperative position. 7. In a device of the class described a presserbar, a shank secured to said bar, a plurality of independently movablefoot members carried by said shank, and an attachment mounted on one, ofsaid members for movement freely in a continuous sweep into and out ofoperative position at will, said attachment having a portion arrangedwhen in operative position to extend across the ends of said footmembers and pass between plies of the work in advance of said members,said portion cooperating with the member by which it is carried tofacilitate infolding of the edge of the upper ply before it is carriedbeneath another of said members.

8. In a device of the class described a presser bar, a, shank secured tosaid bar, a plurality of independently movable foot members carried bysaid shank, and an attachment pivotally mounted on one of said membersfor movement in a continuous sweep either into or out of operativeposition at will, the pivot for said attachment being adjacent saidpresser bar and having its axis inclined at an acute angle thereto, saidattachment having a portion arranged when in operative position to passbetween plies of the work and extend across the line of stitching inadvance of said members and cooperating with the latter to infold theedge of the upper ply.

9. In a device of the class described a presser bar, a shank secured tosaid bar, a plurality of independently movable foot members carried bysaid shank, each of said members being rockable on said shank and onebeing movable bodily thereon, and an attachment mounted on said one ofsaid members for movement freely in a continuous sweep either into orout of operative position at will during the formation of a single seam,said attachment having a portion arranged when in operative position topass between plies of the work and -;extend across the line ,ofstitching 'in advance of said members and to cooperate with the latterto infold the edge of the upper ply, said portion being disposed aboveand to one side of said members when out of operative position.

10. In a device ofthe classdescribed a -presser bar, .a shank secured to,said bar, a plurality of independently movable fo0t members carried bysaid shank, each of saidmembers being rockable on said shank and one-being movable bodily thereon, the Work engaging surfaces of saidmembers being normally at different elevations, and an attachmentmounted on said one of said members for movement into and out ofoperative position at will, said attachment having a portion disposed ina plane between the normal elevations of said Work engaging surfaces andarranged when in operative position to pass between plies of the work inadv-anceof said members and cooperating with the latter to infold theedge of the c i p 11. In a device of the class described a presser bar,a shank secured to said bar, said shank having its lower end 'bifurcatedto provide a pair of spaced downwardly extending walls, a pivot pinextending between said walls, a presser foot member having an upwardextension mounted for rocking movementon said pin, a second presser-f,oot member having aslotted projection cooper ating with,-.said pin toenable both bodilyi and -rocking movementwithrespect thereto, said provjectiont engaging said first-mentioned member to limitoutw-ardmovementof said second member, ,anda spring urging such outward movement :of

thesecond member.

l'2.,I n ;adevice of the class describeda presser bar, ashanl; securedtosaid bar, said shank having its lower endbifurcated to provide a pairof spaced downwardly extending walls, a, pivot pin extending betweensaid walls, a presser foot operating with said pin to enable both bodilyand rocking movement with respect thereto, said. projection engagingsaid first-mentioned member to limit outward movement of said secondmember, a

spring urging such outward movement of the second member, and anattachment mounted on said second member having a portion normallyextending across the forward end of said memhers, saidattachment beingmovable on said second member to carry said portion upwardly andoutwardly-away from said members.

EMIL J. BILLINGTON.

